Sep 20, 2009

Three Hours Sleep is Enough for Angkor

What a long, but memorable day. While I was hoping to get a good night’s rest for my 4am sunrise viewing wake-up call, I had some trouble with my new roommate (I had my own room in Vietnam) and a soft battle over the air conditioning. She gets cold and I get hot so I only had a few hours on and off of rest, but when I woke up, saw it was still dark, I was thrilled to get to Angkor Wat.


It was pitch black when we arrived which made it a little difficult maneuvering through the stone steps and ledges, but the adventure was nonetheless enjoyable. Poleak lead us by way of the grand entrance onto the other side of the main gate and to a spot against the wall to watch the sun wake up. At one point before the show began a Taiwanese television crew came through blaring a blinding light. Even though they were perhaps 100 feet away you could see the never-ending swarm of mosquitos following the lighting guy. I reapplied my repellant again in fear of getting eaten alive like I did in the Caribbean.


Watching the sunrise was nothing but momentous. To not see an inch in front of you, let alone the biggest religious structure on the planet, and then watch the sun come up casting light every which way was one of the best moments of my life to date. Once dawn fully hit and the place filled up with tourists we walked away from the entrance to the mirror lakes at the front of the temple. The sun highlighted pink, orange, and yellow throughout clouds spotted above us and I caught a picture of it in with a reflection from the pool.


We all brought our own breakfast mine being crackers and two oranges, which we enjoyed on the ledge of a library. It was a religious experience. From there we ventured back to Angkor Thom for an elephant ride to Bayon. Only a few of us paid the expensive price for this activity, but because I promised myself to soak up every opportunity and because I LOVE elephants, I took the ride. It was a short 20 minutes, but worth every penny spent plus I got to see Bayon a second time, my favorite temple so far.


Apres elephant we boarded our bus and took a 30 minute ride to another popular temple, Banteay Srey. Known for it’s detailed carvings and red stone, this temple was full of grandeur. Unfortunately the heat precluded us from spending a large amount of time walking around to take in all it’s beauty, but I was able to pull out a little energy to snap some photos.


From Banteay Srey we visited a smaller temple nearby called Pre Rup and then headed back to the main event, Angkor Wat. Since we didn’t take the time to walk through the whole structure earlier in the morning, Poleak wanted to take us back in the afternoon for the final temple visit. After much contemplation I decided to not join the group and head back to the hotel for a quick nap. One thing I’ve learned throughout this trip is to take in as much of the places you visit by yourself, not stay with the majority every minute. When I’ve ventured off by myself I’ve had the most memorable moments. These are the moments that have really made my trip. Yes, it is good to take a tour as the tour company organizes everything for you allowing limited worry about hotel check-ins, transportation, etc., but there must be the right balance. I knew this moment was one of the best moments for me to walk around on my own.


I took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel for a quick 2-hour nap and then returned to Angkor Wat by 3:00 in less heat and in perfect time for sunset. I brought my Lonely Planet book, my “tour guide” for information on the buildings, bass reliefs, towers, and carvings. I walked at my own pace and savored the chance I had to see what I wanted, when I wanted, without interruption. I watched other tourists from across the globe. I sat in prime spots just letting the time pass. I took pictures only when the moment was right. I walked around the exterior wall of the main building and carefully learned about the detailed and enormous bass relief carvings. I breathed it all in. And, as the sun started to fall, I met a monk named Sobhear.


Sobhear leaned up against the wall at the front of the building looking utterly pleasant. Before introducing myself I watched other people ask if they could take his picture, snap the camera once or twice, and then walk away. I on the other hand wanted to meet him. He had a bright, white smile and a personality to match. We talked for about 45 minutes about everything: religion, tourism, our hometowns, family, English, Cambodia, dreams, goals, teaching, and more. This was something that never would have happened if I was with my Intrepid group and I felt alive because of it.


After exchanging email addresses and promising to send him an English dictionary, we walked down the long exit wall to meet his friend. Along the way I also was introduced to two tourists from San Francisco, both whom left their jobs and are traveling indefinitely all around Southeast Asia. They were the first Americans I’d met since leaving California.


From Angkor Wat I was all smiles and contentment. It was a natural high. I rejoined my Intrepid group and took a tuk tuk to dinner at a family owned restaurant. Of course I chose curry, which was yet again, delicious. From there I wanted to finish some shopping at the local night market. Josh, Lisa, and I first enjoyed some foot massages performed by some bubbly women. They loved talking to us, especially since they had met Lisa and Josh an earlier night. They laughed when they told us their “boss,” who looked to be a 20 year old, was a ladyboy. It was hilarious laughing with them.


I bought some beautiful presents for family back home, wondered through all the vitality, and then bargained for a painting of Bayon. I got one that showcases the King in 6 different colors in a fashion similar to the work of Andy Warhol. While it isn’t a reflection of the real Bayon, it reminds me of all the colors of Cambodia... the past, the present, and the future. The good and the bad. The people. I can’t wait to hang it on my wall at home and remember today and all my other days here.

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